Reinstall the wheels. Tighten the lug nuts to the extent possible with the coach off the ground.
Raise the coach and remove the jacks stands. Lower the coach to the ground.
Torque the axle nuts to 170-180 ft lbs. There is no cotter pin on the new axles.
Torque the wheel lug nuts per specs, depending on what wheels you have.
Drive the coach around a little bit to settle the parts. (Go easy on the new brake pads.)
Re-check the axle and lug nut torques.
If you're not comfortable aligning the coach yourself, you should still check and adjust the ride height as described in the manual. Also check that the wheels are approximately parallel as described in the Alignment section of this document. Re-install the dust caps, and take it to an alignment shop. Tell them you want 0 toe, 0 camber, and as much caster as you can get with the caster equal on both sides. For maximum caster, the rear adjustment cams should usually be left as close to the frame as possible.
Note: The alignment and ride height may take substantial driving to settle to their final positions. This may mean miles of driving, not just a few blocks. You should periodically re-check and re-adjust until everything stabilizes. It may be more effective for you to do the alignment yourself than to have to keep taking it to an alignment shop, especially if it's a shop you don't know and trust.
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